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Fish Care-Frequently Asked Questions

Q. How can I Control Algae?

A. Algae are microscopic plants that sometimes form unsightly growths on the aquarium glass and rocks, and occasionally on live plants also. Some algae are brown in colour, others green and red. To control algae, ensure the aquarium is properly maintained otherwise an accumulation of fish wastes and other decaying matter will generate nitrates and phosphates in the water upon which the algae thrive. An abundance of green algae may also be due to excessive light. Reduce the aquarium lighting to 8 hours per day and shield the tank from direct sunlight ( keep tanks away from windows).

Q. How Many Fish Can I Keep?

A. This depends largely on the size of your aquarium, specifically the water surface area. As a general guide, you can keep up to 10cm of fish (body length) per 250 sq cm of surface area. For example an aquarium that is 90cm long and 30cm wide could hold 20x5cm fish or 10x10cm fish. You should base your calculations on the adult size of the fish thereby allowing for room to grow. Our staff here at Pet Essentials will be able to advise you in relation to adult sizes of fish.

Q. Should I Leave My Filter Running All Of The Time?

A. Yes. Only switch it off to clean or service it. If it is switched off for more than an hour or two the friendly filter bacteria may die, compromising your system.

Q. Why Is My Aquarium Water Cloudy?

A. The water in a newly set up aquarium may be cloudy for the first couple of days (new tank syndrome), but should clear. If an established aquarium becomes cloudy then it may be a sign that the system needs a clean. Perform a 30% partial water change and siphon off excess dirt from the gravel using a gravel cleaner. An aquarium water clarifier may also be used.

Q. Which Types Of Tropical Fish Are The Easiest To Breed?

A. Guppies, Platies and Swordtails are recommended for beginners as they give birth to live young. You can tell the sex of a livebearer by looking at its anal fin (unpaired fin situated between the fishs belly and tail); the males anal fin is pointed into a tube shaped organ, whereas the females is normal fan-shaped. Livebearers will breed naturally in the community aquarium. You may need a breeding net to protect the young from predators. Most other species of tropical fish are egg-layers and these are more difficult to breed in the community aquarium.

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Advice on setting up a new aquarium.

Gillian Sheehan, formely of Fins N Things, Midleton offers advice on setting up a new aquarium.

1. Always use a water conditioner when starting off and when adding fresh water into your aquarium.
2. You should also add a biological filtration booster when setting up your aquarium. Regular addition of this booster is also very important to maintain a healthy filter system. We recommend Stress Zyme.
3. When setting up a tropical aquarium it is recommended to leave the water stand for up to 5 days so that the heater has an opportunity to increase the water temperature to 25-27 degrees Celcius. A replacement heater should be on hand in case the primary heater malfunctions. It is also very important to have a thermometer to monitor tank temperature.
4. After you set up your new tank it is advised to change one third of the water every week for the first few weeks and then one third every two weeks after that remembering to add water conditioner each time.
5. Most good quality aquariums will come with lighting but we recommend having lights on for only a few hours a day, certainly no more than 8 hours per day. Excessive use of lights can promote algae growth.
6. After setting up your new aquarium we recommend feeding every second day for the first few weeks. There are a variety of fish foods on the market depending on the type of fish you are stocking including flakes, pellets, sticks and algae wafers for bottom feeders.
7. Over-feeding is a major problem for people starting off so remember to feed sparingly.
8. Most aquariums now come with good quality filters but if you need an upgrade we have a large variety in store. It is very important, when cleaning your filter sponges, to always wash them in tank water removed into a bowl. NEVER WASH YOUR SPONGES UNDER THE TAP. This removes beneficial bacteria which the fish need to thrive.
9. Change filter sponges regularly – Juwel aquarium fine filter needs to be changed with every water change, carbon sponge every 6 weeks, nitrate sponge every 6-8 weeks, blue coarse and fine sponges every 3-6 months. NEVER CHANGE ALL SPONGES TOGETHER.
10. Change Fluval sponge every 3-6 months. Change Eheim sponge every 3-6 months.
11. Pet Essentials stock the full range of Interpet Fish Treatments to combat all fish ailments. When you are treating sick fish it is always recommended you remove the carbon filters from your filter system. Carbon filter can be replaced once treatment regime is complete.
12. PET ESSENTIALS STOCK A FANTASTIC RANGE OF TROPICAL AND COLDWATER FISH. IT IS IMPORTANT TO INFORM SALES STAFF OF FISH ALREADY PRESENT IN YOUR SYSTEM SO THEY CAN ADVISE YOU ON SUITABLE FISH TO ADD TO AQUARIUM. WE ALSO HAVE A VARIETY OF SPECIALIST BOOKS IN INSTORE BOOK SECTION.

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Canary & Budgie

Canaries range in size from 10-17cm and belong to the finch family. They are the most commonly kept birds in captivity and are relatively hardy. The average lifespan of a canary is 10 years.

Canaries only require a simple canary seed mixture with grit for digestion. Honey bar treats can be given with supplementary greens. Canaries are sensitive to changes in their diet therefore a good routine should be maintained with good quality seed fed. We recommend Versele-Laga Canary Prestige. Water should be available at all times. An increased amount of food should be provided throughout the breeding season.

Budgies are members of the parrot family and are native to Australia.Budgies enjoy the stimulation of toys and really enjoy human interaction so ensure your budgie gets plenty of attention! You should ensure that they have access to plenty of wooden perches for gnawing.

Budgies need to be fed a ready mixed diet. We recommend Versele-Laga Budgie Prestige.

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Hamster Care

Here we present some handy advice and tips on taking care of hamsters. These furry little fellows have become very popular and with the aid of some simple know-how you can really enjoy these pets fully.

1. Hamsters are nocturnal,they generally sleep all day and are awake all night.If you want to handle them during the day,you will need to wake them up gently, otherwise you may frighten them,and they could react by biting you.
2. Your hamster cage needs to be cleaned at least once a week. At this time,you will need to dispose of all the old shavings and bedding and any uneaten food in the base of the cage.The cage must be washed completely with an anti-bacterial solution (such as clear dettol, not anything with a strong scent). You will need to dry the cage before putting in fresh bedding for your pet. You should always wear gloves when cleaning out your hamster. Never wash the hamster cage in the kitchen sink, or near a food preparation area.
3. Hamsters need to be handled on a regular basis. It can take them time to get used to you, so be patient if they are a little wriggly at first. Make sure they are fully awake before picking them up, and always use two hands so that they do not fall. A fall for a hamster can cause serious injury to your pet. If you are not confident about picking them up, handle them initially in their cage so they cannot fall very far and get hurt. You must always wash you hands carefully after handling your pet. Any bites or scratches should be treated with caution, clean the wound well, and if you are concerned,contact your doctor immediately.
4. Your hamster will mainly eat a prepared hamster mix, available in pet shops. You can also give them small amounts of fruit or veg as a treat, this will also help to file down their teeth. Hamster need to chew regularly to keep their teeth filed, so you can also give them a wood gnaw to help with this. Don’t over do the fresh food, as your hamster wil store any excess in the bottom of the cage, and it could end up going off, which isn’t healthy for you or your pet.
5. Hamsters, in very rare cases, can carry a virus called Lymphocytic Chorio Meningitis. This virus is usually carried by mice but can be passed on to hamsters. This virus can be transmitted to humans by bites or handling faeces and urine while cleaning. It is important to always Never ‘kiss’ your hamster, or hold it close to your face. In most cases, a human who has been bitten by an infected hamster shows no reaction or signs of illness. The virus mainly affects anyone with a compromised immune system, or can also affect babies if their mother handles the hamster while pregnant. We therefore recommend that if you have anyone in your home who is pregnant or has any form of illness that may compromise their immune system, they should not come into contact with the hamster. If you have any concerns about bites or scratches, you should always contact your doctor for advice. Wear gloves when cleaning your pet hamster and to always wash you hands carefully after handling your pet.

 

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Kitten – Fleas and Worming

Your kitten may arrive with some little ‘passengers’ which aren’t good for your health, so regular worming and flea control are essential.

Fleas

She could have dog or cat fleas – fleas aren’t picky, they’ll feast off either species quite happily, and as well as causing itching, they also transmit worms, and will bite humans too. Your kitten’s previous owner should have treated the kittens before they left their Mum, but you should keep an eye out for any outbreaks – look out for black specks along your kitten’s spine, or when you comb her, wipe the comb on a damp tissue – red or black specks mean she has fleas.

If she has fleas, you’ll need to treat your kitten, her bed and the house itself, ideally with a product which ‘breaks’ the flea’s lifecycle, otherwise re-infestation will keep on occurring. The simplest method is one of the ‘spot-on’ products your vet recommends. Make sure whatever you use is specifically designed for felines – those for dogs can be harmful.

Worms

Worms are parasites which live in the kitten’s intestines, affecting how she digests her food and how much goodness she can extract from it. They are much more common if your kitten goes outdoors a lot, and especially if she turns out to be a hunter.

Round worms and tape worms are the commonest types, round worms lodge in the kitten’s small intestine, form balls and can cause intestinal obstructions. They can be detected by the presence of eggs in the kitten’s droppings or on anal areas. Tape worms which fix onto the intestinal wall and cause bloating, diarrhoea and sometimes damage to the coat. They can be detected by the presence in stools of white disks rather like grains of rice.

Both are easily treated using veterinary medicines. Don’t be tempted by non-veterinary products, although cheaper they are not nearly as effective.

Ticks

Ticks are picked up almost exclusively outdoors, and kittens are less susceptible to ticks than adult cats. They prefer to attach themselves around the neck and ears.

Ticks can cause inflammatory reactions where they are attached. The kitten must be treated with a complete acaricide, as prescribed by your vet, which will eliminate ticks without pain. Never pull on a tick to remove it as you risk leaving the head of the tick under the skin which can cause a very painful reaction in the kitten.

Ear mites

This ear infection is caused by mites living in the ear canal. The presence of an abundant blackish and waxy discharge and shaking the head or rubbing with the paw are usually signs of ear mites. Your vet can advise you on treatments.

Ringworm

Ringworm is difficult to diagnose because of the numerous symptoms it can induce. It is resistant, widely spread and contagious (including humans). Ringworm can effect almost all animals. Treatment is long and complex because all the animals need to be treated as well as their environment, and you should follow your vet’s advice very carefully.

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Kitten Nutrition

Some useful tips on helping your new Kitten get the best start in life.

Find out what your kitten is eating before she comes home, and keep her on that for a week or so before you change it. The most important thing to remember in feeding kittens is that their digestive systems are still immature – so they can be prone to upset tummies. The best and easiest solution is to feed an ultra-digestible food specially designed for kittens (the kibble size, shape and texture in dry foods are also good for her teeth), and to feed little and often. In the wild, kittens and cats tend to snack, eating up to 20 small meals a day. So using a dry food means you can put the daily portion down (using the guidelines on the pack), and let your kitten feed at will – just as long as you are sure no other pet will snaffle it before she does!

A kitten’s growth takes place in two distinct phases:

Stage one: From birth to 4 months

During this period the kitten grows very fast. By the end of four months, it will be five to seven times heavier than its birth weight. The kitten’s skeletal structure is also developing at this time and its energy needs are very high.

Stage two: From 4 months to 12 months

At this point, the kitten’s growth slows down. This allows the skeleton to strengthen and muscles to develop. Energy requirements remain very high.

Teeth

Kittens have two sets of teeth – the first, the milk teeth, appear at around two weeks of age. The final set of teeth will be in place at the beginning of the second stage of growth, between 4 and 6 months.

Digestive ability

When a kitten is born, its digestive system is not fully developed and therefore its food must be specially formulated to ensure digestive safety. The kitten’s digestive ability increases over time.

Immune system

Between the 4th and 12th week of life, the kitten is particularly vulnerable to infectious diseases as its immune system is not yet fully functional, and the immunity gained from its mother’s milk is decreasing.

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Kitten Behaviour and Training

Learning and training

How kittens learn

Kittens learn first through imitation of the mother cat and then through trial and error. If the outcome is positive, then this is likely to influence their future behaviour.

The ideal environment for your kitten is one where she can socialise easily and familiarise herself with people. In order to socialise your kitten make sure she meets and is handled by different people, encounters varying noise levels and comes into contact with other animals. It is important to leave the kitten with her mother until she is weaned, otherwise she may miss out on vital learning processes and may prove difficult to educate. If however the kitten has been brought up in isolation, you should remove her as soon as she is eight weeks old and bring her into contact with other cats.

Learning to play

Kittens love to play (it’s pretend hunting), so toys are essential – either home-made, like squashed-up balls of tinfoil, a bunch of feathers tied on to a bit of string, an old ping pong ball, or choose some from your vet or pet shop. Play with your kitten every day – it’s good for you both, and keep it up as she matures so she gets plenty of exercise. Keep safe though – check the toys regularly, and make sure she can’t get into anything she shouldn’t.

Learning to hunt

A kitten starts to learn to hunt from as early as one month old, where she’ll learn hunting postures from her mother. But it’s not until six weeks of age that she begins to understand which prey can be eaten. By the age of two months, she is no longer scared and can attack, and at six months she can successfully hunt alone.

Learning to be clean

A mother will teach a kitten to be clean, and from five to six weeks old, your kitten should be using the litter tray and covering the mess up. If your kitten is having problems, place them in the litter tray and show them what to do. Dig a hole with her paw and cover it over. You should only have to repeat this exercise a few times before they get the hang of it.

Clean the tray out frequently – remove ‘clumps’ everyday, and once a week use a cat-friendly disinfectant, allow it to dry and completely replace the litter. If you are pregnant, ideally get someone else to do it, or otherwise always wear rubber gloves, and territory,your hands thoroughly afterwards.

Organising her territory

When it comes to a cat’s territory, quality is more important then quantity. Although in the countryside a female cat’s territory can extend to 3 acres, and a male’s to 30 acres, ten cats will happily share a single acre in built up areas. The important part is that their territory is exclusive and never overlaps with that of another cat. Your cat will identify your home as its territory and will organise its life around this area. Cats tend to prefer areas with a layout that offers opportunities to play, be up high and hide away, compared to a bare space.

Within her territory, the cat will have four distinct areas: the eating area, an area for rest, the toilet and a large area for play. You should not disrupt this organisation, or your kitten could develop behavioural problems.

Eating area: The eating area should not be near the toilet area or your own eating area. If possible, avoid the kitchen or dining room so that your kitten does not confuse your meals with hers, which could lead to a nutritional imbalance.

Rest area: The position of the rest area changes depending on where the best heat sources are, and your kitten will probably choose to rest near a radiator or in the sun. If you have a sleeping basket, position it in a warm place nearby to you, as your kitten will also enjoy being close to you.

Toilet area: Choose an area away from the kitten’s food for the toilet area.

Play area: The play area is the largest of the four, and the best living areas have ample opportunities for playing, racing about and climbing up high (cats love to be up high). Cats also adore places where they can be at the same level as your face and rub against you as they would another cat.

Sleeping

A kitten has two distinct sleep phases:

Deep sleep: From birth until eight weeks of age, all sleep is deep and continual, during which essential growth hormones are secreted. At the age of 2 months, the continuity of sleep decreases and your kitten alternates light sleep and deep sleep. During the deep sleep period, you should never wake a kitten as it could affect their growth.

Light sleep: Once the kitten is two months old, their sleep rhythm will gradually move towards that of an adult cat – sleeping for several periods for a total of around 16 hours a day. During this light sleep, cats sleep with one ear listening – conscious of even the slightest noise.

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Your New Kitten, What You Need.

When you get your kitten home, show them where things are kept, starting with the litter tray, then the basket which will become a place of refuge for peace and safety, and finally her toys and accessories.

Basket:

Choose one with comfortable bedding where the kitten will feel safe (although don’t be surprised if your kitten chooses to sleep elsewhere).

Litter tray:

This should be a container with a scoop to remove droppings. A covered crate can help avoid accidental spills and limit smells.

Two dishes:

Use a small one for cat food (an adult cat only eats 60 to 70 grams of dry cat food a day) and a bigger one for fresh water. Water should be available for your cat at all times.

Scratching post:

A scratching post can help avoid damage to other furniture in your home.

Toys:

Can be bought from the pet shop or home made.

Cat tree:

As kittens love to climb up high (it is the dominant position) a cat tree can help save your cat from vaulting on your furniture and at the same time as to satisfy their need for exercise.

Collar and lead:

A collar is the easiest and quickest means of identification for your kitten. A lead can also be a useful accessory for short trips without the cat box.

Cat flap:

If you plan to allow your kitten to go outside, training her to use a cat flap is the easiest way.  Electronic tags on the collar can be used, which only admit your cat rather than every cat in the neighbourhood. However, more owners are opting to keep their pedigree cat indoors.

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