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Kitten – Fleas and Worming

Your kitten may arrive with some little ‘passengers’ which aren’t good for your health, so regular worming and flea control are essential.

Fleas

She could have dog or cat fleas – fleas aren’t picky, they’ll feast off either species quite happily, and as well as causing itching, they also transmit worms, and will bite humans too. Your kitten’s previous owner should have treated the kittens before they left their Mum, but you should keep an eye out for any outbreaks – look out for black specks along your kitten’s spine, or when you comb her, wipe the comb on a damp tissue – red or black specks mean she has fleas.

If she has fleas, you’ll need to treat your kitten, her bed and the house itself, ideally with a product which ‘breaks’ the flea’s lifecycle, otherwise re-infestation will keep on occurring. The simplest method is one of the ‘spot-on’ products your vet recommends. Make sure whatever you use is specifically designed for felines – those for dogs can be harmful.

Worms

Worms are parasites which live in the kitten’s intestines, affecting how she digests her food and how much goodness she can extract from it. They are much more common if your kitten goes outdoors a lot, and especially if she turns out to be a hunter.

Round worms and tape worms are the commonest types, round worms lodge in the kitten’s small intestine, form balls and can cause intestinal obstructions. They can be detected by the presence of eggs in the kitten’s droppings or on anal areas. Tape worms which fix onto the intestinal wall and cause bloating, diarrhoea and sometimes damage to the coat. They can be detected by the presence in stools of white disks rather like grains of rice.

Both are easily treated using veterinary medicines. Don’t be tempted by non-veterinary products, although cheaper they are not nearly as effective.

Ticks

Ticks are picked up almost exclusively outdoors, and kittens are less susceptible to ticks than adult cats. They prefer to attach themselves around the neck and ears.

Ticks can cause inflammatory reactions where they are attached. The kitten must be treated with a complete acaricide, as prescribed by your vet, which will eliminate ticks without pain. Never pull on a tick to remove it as you risk leaving the head of the tick under the skin which can cause a very painful reaction in the kitten.

Ear mites

This ear infection is caused by mites living in the ear canal. The presence of an abundant blackish and waxy discharge and shaking the head or rubbing with the paw are usually signs of ear mites. Your vet can advise you on treatments.

Ringworm

Ringworm is difficult to diagnose because of the numerous symptoms it can induce. It is resistant, widely spread and contagious (including humans). Ringworm can effect almost all animals. Treatment is long and complex because all the animals need to be treated as well as their environment, and you should follow your vet’s advice very carefully.

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Kitten Nutrition

Some useful tips on helping your new Kitten get the best start in life.

Find out what your kitten is eating before she comes home, and keep her on that for a week or so before you change it. The most important thing to remember in feeding kittens is that their digestive systems are still immature – so they can be prone to upset tummies. The best and easiest solution is to feed an ultra-digestible food specially designed for kittens (the kibble size, shape and texture in dry foods are also good for her teeth), and to feed little and often. In the wild, kittens and cats tend to snack, eating up to 20 small meals a day. So using a dry food means you can put the daily portion down (using the guidelines on the pack), and let your kitten feed at will – just as long as you are sure no other pet will snaffle it before she does!

A kitten’s growth takes place in two distinct phases:

Stage one: From birth to 4 months

During this period the kitten grows very fast. By the end of four months, it will be five to seven times heavier than its birth weight. The kitten’s skeletal structure is also developing at this time and its energy needs are very high.

Stage two: From 4 months to 12 months

At this point, the kitten’s growth slows down. This allows the skeleton to strengthen and muscles to develop. Energy requirements remain very high.

Teeth

Kittens have two sets of teeth – the first, the milk teeth, appear at around two weeks of age. The final set of teeth will be in place at the beginning of the second stage of growth, between 4 and 6 months.

Digestive ability

When a kitten is born, its digestive system is not fully developed and therefore its food must be specially formulated to ensure digestive safety. The kitten’s digestive ability increases over time.

Immune system

Between the 4th and 12th week of life, the kitten is particularly vulnerable to infectious diseases as its immune system is not yet fully functional, and the immunity gained from its mother’s milk is decreasing.

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Kitten Behaviour and Training

Learning and training

How kittens learn

Kittens learn first through imitation of the mother cat and then through trial and error. If the outcome is positive, then this is likely to influence their future behaviour.

The ideal environment for your kitten is one where she can socialise easily and familiarise herself with people. In order to socialise your kitten make sure she meets and is handled by different people, encounters varying noise levels and comes into contact with other animals. It is important to leave the kitten with her mother until she is weaned, otherwise she may miss out on vital learning processes and may prove difficult to educate. If however the kitten has been brought up in isolation, you should remove her as soon as she is eight weeks old and bring her into contact with other cats.

Learning to play

Kittens love to play (it’s pretend hunting), so toys are essential – either home-made, like squashed-up balls of tinfoil, a bunch of feathers tied on to a bit of string, an old ping pong ball, or choose some from your vet or pet shop. Play with your kitten every day – it’s good for you both, and keep it up as she matures so she gets plenty of exercise. Keep safe though – check the toys regularly, and make sure she can’t get into anything she shouldn’t.

Learning to hunt

A kitten starts to learn to hunt from as early as one month old, where she’ll learn hunting postures from her mother. But it’s not until six weeks of age that she begins to understand which prey can be eaten. By the age of two months, she is no longer scared and can attack, and at six months she can successfully hunt alone.

Learning to be clean

A mother will teach a kitten to be clean, and from five to six weeks old, your kitten should be using the litter tray and covering the mess up. If your kitten is having problems, place them in the litter tray and show them what to do. Dig a hole with her paw and cover it over. You should only have to repeat this exercise a few times before they get the hang of it.

Clean the tray out frequently – remove ‘clumps’ everyday, and once a week use a cat-friendly disinfectant, allow it to dry and completely replace the litter. If you are pregnant, ideally get someone else to do it, or otherwise always wear rubber gloves, and territory,your hands thoroughly afterwards.

Organising her territory

When it comes to a cat’s territory, quality is more important then quantity. Although in the countryside a female cat’s territory can extend to 3 acres, and a male’s to 30 acres, ten cats will happily share a single acre in built up areas. The important part is that their territory is exclusive and never overlaps with that of another cat. Your cat will identify your home as its territory and will organise its life around this area. Cats tend to prefer areas with a layout that offers opportunities to play, be up high and hide away, compared to a bare space.

Within her territory, the cat will have four distinct areas: the eating area, an area for rest, the toilet and a large area for play. You should not disrupt this organisation, or your kitten could develop behavioural problems.

Eating area: The eating area should not be near the toilet area or your own eating area. If possible, avoid the kitchen or dining room so that your kitten does not confuse your meals with hers, which could lead to a nutritional imbalance.

Rest area: The position of the rest area changes depending on where the best heat sources are, and your kitten will probably choose to rest near a radiator or in the sun. If you have a sleeping basket, position it in a warm place nearby to you, as your kitten will also enjoy being close to you.

Toilet area: Choose an area away from the kitten’s food for the toilet area.

Play area: The play area is the largest of the four, and the best living areas have ample opportunities for playing, racing about and climbing up high (cats love to be up high). Cats also adore places where they can be at the same level as your face and rub against you as they would another cat.

Sleeping

A kitten has two distinct sleep phases:

Deep sleep: From birth until eight weeks of age, all sleep is deep and continual, during which essential growth hormones are secreted. At the age of 2 months, the continuity of sleep decreases and your kitten alternates light sleep and deep sleep. During the deep sleep period, you should never wake a kitten as it could affect their growth.

Light sleep: Once the kitten is two months old, their sleep rhythm will gradually move towards that of an adult cat – sleeping for several periods for a total of around 16 hours a day. During this light sleep, cats sleep with one ear listening – conscious of even the slightest noise.

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Your New Kitten, What You Need.

When you get your kitten home, show them where things are kept, starting with the litter tray, then the basket which will become a place of refuge for peace and safety, and finally her toys and accessories.

Basket:

Choose one with comfortable bedding where the kitten will feel safe (although don’t be surprised if your kitten chooses to sleep elsewhere).

Litter tray:

This should be a container with a scoop to remove droppings. A covered crate can help avoid accidental spills and limit smells.

Two dishes:

Use a small one for cat food (an adult cat only eats 60 to 70 grams of dry cat food a day) and a bigger one for fresh water. Water should be available for your cat at all times.

Scratching post:

A scratching post can help avoid damage to other furniture in your home.

Toys:

Can be bought from the pet shop or home made.

Cat tree:

As kittens love to climb up high (it is the dominant position) a cat tree can help save your cat from vaulting on your furniture and at the same time as to satisfy their need for exercise.

Collar and lead:

A collar is the easiest and quickest means of identification for your kitten. A lead can also be a useful accessory for short trips without the cat box.

Cat flap:

If you plan to allow your kitten to go outside, training her to use a cat flap is the easiest way.  Electronic tags on the collar can be used, which only admit your cat rather than every cat in the neighbourhood. However, more owners are opting to keep their pedigree cat indoors.

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Bringing Your Kitten Home

Bringing your new kitten home is a wonderful day – full of fun, laughter, purrs and cuddles!

For your kitten, it’s also a big upheaval – she will be missing Mum and brothers and sisters, and will have to get used to a whole new house, lifestyle, pets and people. So if she’s quiet and shy at the start don’t worry too much – here’s a few tips to help her settle in…

A safe journey

Choose the date you pick up your new cat carefully. The ideal time is a quiet weekend when there are not too many people around. For the journey, a cat box is essential – travelling with your kitten loose in the car can be dangerous. Choose a cat box that will accommodate your cat when it is fully grown, and bear in mind that cats often find boxes that are dark inside more reassuring. Kit out your cat box with a blanket and bedding for comfort, and include some paper towels to mop up any accidents that might happen during the trip.

Setting up home

When your cat arrives make sure your house is quiet, calm and safe. Remove any possible hazards and ensure everything you need – feeding bowls, accessories, bedding and so on – are in place. Not sure what you need? View our full list of kitten essentials. Decide in advance where your kitten will eat and sleep – she needs peace and quiet for both, especially in the early days. An out of the way corner is ideal. If the atmosphere is noisy or disturbed, your kitten could grow into a nervous and fearful adult. The best approach is to move gently without shouting, and to avoid passing the kitten round for everyone to cuddle. Gain your kitten’s trust by keeping her safe. Your home could be dangerous for a young kitten, so check for hazards before your kitten arrives.

Potential hazards:

• Plastic bags and foam
• Electric hotplates
• Balconies
• Irons
• Electric wires and sockets
• Pesticides and weed killers
• Medicines
• Small items such as elastic bands and drawing pins
• Washing machines and tumble dryers
• Dustbins and toilets (always keep the lid on and the toilet seat down)
• Some plants can be harmful for cats, avoid Holly, Mistletoe, Wisteria, Rhododendron, Ivy and Sweet pea

Introducing your kitten to other pets

Introducing a kitten is a little more tricky when you already have pets in the home. Introductions to other pets should be made under supervision and over a gradual period. Mishandled introductions may leave your current pet feeling frustrated or jealous, which could result in your pet leaving home temporarily.

Dogs
A well socialised dog will easily accept a young kitten. Older dogs may be less tolerant, but a small scratch from your kitten will soon make them less aggressive and integration will generally take place quickly and without major problems.
Other cats
An adult cat does not really appreciate the arrival of a kitten in her territory, and she will show her displeasure in the form of threatening behaviour. Total acceptance may take several months. During the introduction process, do not allow any aggression. Do it on neutral territory during play or meal times. Repeat the operation until both cats no longer mind the others presence and begin to share. A hierarchical relationship will then be established between the two cats – one that you should respect.

When introducing a new kitten, it’s best to maintain your old pet’s privileges for the first few days. Give them plenty of reassurance on their own personal territory. Keep the kitten in a small area to start with, so that she gradually learns her way around and doesn’t hide under furniture.

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