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Bringing Your Kitten Home

Bringing your new kitten home is a wonderful day – full of fun, laughter, purrs and cuddles!

For your kitten, it’s also a big upheaval – she will be missing Mum and brothers and sisters, and will have to get used to a whole new house, lifestyle, pets and people. So if she’s quiet and shy at the start don’t worry too much – here’s a few tips to help her settle in…

A safe journey

Choose the date you pick up your new cat carefully. The ideal time is a quiet weekend when there are not too many people around. For the journey, a cat box is essential – travelling with your kitten loose in the car can be dangerous. Choose a cat box that will accommodate your cat when it is fully grown, and bear in mind that cats often find boxes that are dark inside more reassuring. Kit out your cat box with a blanket and bedding for comfort, and include some paper towels to mop up any accidents that might happen during the trip.

Setting up home

When your cat arrives make sure your house is quiet, calm and safe. Remove any possible hazards and ensure everything you need – feeding bowls, accessories, bedding and so on – are in place. Not sure what you need? View our full list of kitten essentials. Decide in advance where your kitten will eat and sleep – she needs peace and quiet for both, especially in the early days. An out of the way corner is ideal. If the atmosphere is noisy or disturbed, your kitten could grow into a nervous and fearful adult. The best approach is to move gently without shouting, and to avoid passing the kitten round for everyone to cuddle. Gain your kitten’s trust by keeping her safe. Your home could be dangerous for a young kitten, so check for hazards before your kitten arrives.

Potential hazards:

• Plastic bags and foam
• Electric hotplates
• Balconies
• Irons
• Electric wires and sockets
• Pesticides and weed killers
• Medicines
• Small items such as elastic bands and drawing pins
• Washing machines and tumble dryers
• Dustbins and toilets (always keep the lid on and the toilet seat down)
• Some plants can be harmful for cats, avoid Holly, Mistletoe, Wisteria, Rhododendron, Ivy and Sweet pea

Introducing your kitten to other pets

Introducing a kitten is a little more tricky when you already have pets in the home. Introductions to other pets should be made under supervision and over a gradual period. Mishandled introductions may leave your current pet feeling frustrated or jealous, which could result in your pet leaving home temporarily.

Dogs
A well socialised dog will easily accept a young kitten. Older dogs may be less tolerant, but a small scratch from your kitten will soon make them less aggressive and integration will generally take place quickly and without major problems.
Other cats
An adult cat does not really appreciate the arrival of a kitten in her territory, and she will show her displeasure in the form of threatening behaviour. Total acceptance may take several months. During the introduction process, do not allow any aggression. Do it on neutral territory during play or meal times. Repeat the operation until both cats no longer mind the others presence and begin to share. A hierarchical relationship will then be established between the two cats – one that you should respect.

When introducing a new kitten, it’s best to maintain your old pet’s privileges for the first few days. Give them plenty of reassurance on their own personal territory. Keep the kitten in a small area to start with, so that she gradually learns her way around and doesn’t hide under furniture.

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Neuteuring, Worming, Flea Control and Microchipping

 

Neutering is one of the most responsible decisions any pet owner can make. Neutering not only protects against unwanted pregnancies, helping to keep down the number of dogs in rescue, it also offers protection against various diseases including cancers. It can also help with some behavioural problems, although this is not the main reason for doing it. Some owners are concerned about a change in personality, or that the puppy might become fat and boring – neither of these is inevitable, or even likely – just follow your vet’s advice and make sure your puppy keeps up with his games and you watch his diet. Your vet or vet nurse will advise you, and will also discuss how the hormonal changes brought on by neutering can affect your puppy’s behaviour and weight.

The little ‘passengers’ your puppy could carry aren’t good for his health… so regular worming and flea control is essential.

Fleas

Your puppy could have dog or cat fleas – fleas aren’t picky, and as well as causing itching in your dog will bite humans too. You need to treat your puppy, his bed and the house itself, ideally with a product which ‘breaks’ the flea’s lifecycle, otherwise reinfestation will keep on occurring. The simplest way is to use one of the ‘spot-on’ products your vet can recommend.

Worms

Worms are parasites which live in the puppy’s intestines, affecting how he digests his food and how much goodness he can extract from it. Roundworms and tapeworms are the commonest types, but they are easily treated using veterinary medicines. Don’t be tempted by non-veterinary products, although cheaper they are not nearly as effective.

The prospect of your pup getting lost – and maybe slipping his collar or losing his name tag – is unbearable. Dog theft is on the increase today as well, so security is becoming an issue for all dog owners.

How microchipping works

Microchipping, which is the painless insertion of a microchip under the skin on his neck, means that any vet or dog rescue organisation can ‘read’ the chip with a handheld scanner, and your dog can be reunited with you quickly.

Your vet can perform the procedure at any of your routine appointments, and it literally takes just seconds to make your dog identifiable for life. The chip number will be entered into a computer system, and you will be sent a certificate confirming your ownership and address, plus how to amend your details should you move home

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Puppy Training

 

Why training your puppy is important

However delightful your puppy is, never forget that he’s going to grow up – and to be a happy, well-adjusted adolescent and adult dog, he needs good training. Your training methods should always be kind, calm and reward-based – never shout or hit, because that will simply upset him. We recommend a technique known as positive reinforcement whereby good behaviour is rewarded through praise and treats. Our staff at Pet Essentials will be happy to discuss this technique with you.

A common reason for young dogs to end up in rescue is poor training – their first owners weren’t prepared to spend the time getting them to behave properly, and often give up on them. So it’s clear that training is essential. You can teach yourself via books which you can buy at Pet Essentials, but a great place to start is at puppy socialisation classes at your vets or via local dog groups. Our notice board in store is worth checking for advertised classes.

House training

With house training, the key is to identify the place where you want your puppy to go, take him there often, and every time he performs make a huge fuss of him, with praise and treats (Positive Reinforcement). Take him out frequently – after play, feeding, exercise, entertainment, first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and at least once an hour. Stay with him, so you can reward him there and then, and if nothing happens wait a few minutes before you bring him in and then try again in an hour. Accidents will happen, especially at night time. If you are there when it’s happening, interrupt him and take him out to the right place, and reward him then. Don’t punish him if you weren’t there, because he won’t understand. Puppy crates and wee wee pads can help with house training, because he won’t go where he sleeps. Finally, if you take him out for a walk, make sure you keep going after he’s done his stuff – because he needs his exercise and fun just as much as he needs to ‘go’.

Chewing is a part of puppy teething – you can’t stop it, but you can give him some good chew toys (some of which you can stuff with food or treats, so he has a built-in reward) and make sure he can’t get at anything you don’t want him to chew.

Puppy proofing your home

Getting down to your puppy’s level can help dog-proof your house. Imagine he’s a toddler and make sure the puppy can’t get hold of anything he shouldn’t – trailing wires, unstable shelves, bottles of bleach, medicines, even houseplants. If you don’t want him to have it, or it’s potentially harmful – move it! Check the garden too – look out for puppy-sized holes in hedges or fences, and make sure pesticides are locked away.

Finally remember that when you get your puppy home he is going to experience lots of new things. Travelling by car, being left alone and meeting new people for example can all be new and frightening situations for a puppy.

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What To Feed Your Puppy?

Your puppy’s first meals

Ask what your puppy is eating before he comes home, and keep him on that for a week or so before you change it. The most important thing to remember with feeding puppies is that their digestive systems are still developing – so they are prone to upset tummies. Try an ultra-digestible food designed for puppies and feed little and often.

Divide the daily amount of food (the pack will tell you how much you should feed per day) into 3 or 4 portions, and feed him his meals at regular intervals, so that his tummy doesn’t get overloaded. At 6 months, you can get him down to 2 or 3 meals per day. Supervised feeding of your puppy is always recommended.

What food to choose

There are many different types of pet food, but choosing the right one for your puppy is what really matters. What constitutes the right food for your puppy varies according to his neuter status, how old he is, what size he is, what breed he is and any special considerations that your vet might identify (sensitive tummy or skin, for example). The basis of good nutrition is providing everything the body needs to function properly and maintain itself in good health, which is particularly important for growing puppies.

Check the ingredients list

The average ‘supermarket’ puppy food will contain about 30 ingredients, while a tailor-made nutritional food available from your local pet specialist will contain around 50 carefully selected nutrients, put together in a kind of jigsaw puzzle to provide exactly the right combination of ultra-digestible proteins, carbohydrates, fats, and added vitamin and mineral complexes to safeguard your puppy’s current and future health.

Wet or dry?

The other decision to make is between dry and wet food. Dry food should be completely nutritionally balanced (so you only need to serve fresh water alongside) and it also has proven dental benefits.

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New Puppy! What next… ?

The day your new puppy comes home is the start of a new life, and a great adventure for all of you, one which we hope you will enjoy for many years to come, as your puppy becomes a real part of the family. For your puppy, it’s also a big upheaval – he or she will be missing Mum and brothers and sisters, and will have to get used to a whole new house, lifestyle and people.

What to buy

It’s much easier to get what you need for your new puppy in advance, rather than dashing out when he’s come home because you’ve forgotten something. Here’s a reminder of some useful items:

Puppy crate (if using)

Dog bed and bedding

Food and water bowls – one for each

Food – it’s best to stick with the one he’s used to, at least at the start, we will be very happy to advise if you are not sure.

Collar and lead, plus dog tag

Brush and comb

Toys

Wee wee pads

Training treats

Puppy Shampoo

Setting up home

Decide in advance where he’ll eat and sleep – he needs peace and quiet for both. A puppy crate is ideal, or somewhere like the utility room or a room that is not used too often – just make sure anything your pup might be tempted to chew is out of the way!

Just like human babies, puppies need their sleep – so don’t disturb him when he’s napping, and make sure he has somewhere quiet and comfortable to snooze out of the way of a busy household. He’ll also need to learn where to go to the toilet, what meal times are all about, how to play nicely with children or other pets in the house, which toys are his, what he’s allowed to do and what’s out of bounds. And of course, he’ll have to visit the vets for a check-up and his vaccinations, as well as learn to wear a collar, walk on a lead, come when he’s called, and other basic commands, all of which are going to keep him (and you!) pretty busy for the next few months.

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